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(+)-Usnic acid as a promising candidate for a safe and stable topical photoprotective agent
usnic acid
photoprotection
normal skin cells
octocrylene
The study aimed to examine whether usnic acid—a lichen compound with UV-absorbing properties—can be considered as a prospective photoprotective agent in cosmetic products. Moreover, a comparison of two usnic acid enantiomers was performed to preselect the more effective compound. To meet this aim, an in vitro model was created, comprising the determination of skin-penetrating properties via skin-PAMPA assay, safety assessment to normal human skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts), and examination of photostability and photoprotective properties. Both enantiomers revealed comparable good skin-penetrating properties. Left-handed usnic acid was slightly more toxic to keratinocytes (IC50 80.82 and 40.12 µg/mL, after 48 and 72 h, respectively) than its right-handed counterpart. The latter enantiomer, in a cosmetic formulation, was characterized by good photoprotective properties and photostability, comparable to the UV filter octocrylene. Perhaps most interestingly, (+)-usnic acid combined with octocrylene in one formulation revealed enhanced photoprotection and photostability. Thus, the strategy can be considered for the potential use of (+)-usnic acid as a UV filter in cosmetic products. Moreover, the proposed model may be useful for the evaluation of candidates for UV filters.
dc.abstract.en | The study aimed to examine whether usnic acid—a lichen compound with UV-absorbing properties—can be considered as a prospective photoprotective agent in cosmetic products. Moreover, a comparison of two usnic acid enantiomers was performed to preselect the more effective compound. To meet this aim, an in vitro model was created, comprising the determination of skin-penetrating properties via skin-PAMPA assay, safety assessment to normal human skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts), and examination of photostability and photoprotective properties. Both enantiomers revealed comparable good skin-penetrating properties. Left-handed usnic acid was slightly more toxic to keratinocytes (IC50 80.82 and 40.12 µg/mL, after 48 and 72 h, respectively) than its right-handed counterpart. The latter enantiomer, in a cosmetic formulation, was characterized by good photoprotective properties and photostability, comparable to the UV filter octocrylene. Perhaps most interestingly, (+)-usnic acid combined with octocrylene in one formulation revealed enhanced photoprotection and photostability. Thus, the strategy can be considered for the potential use of (+)-usnic acid as a UV filter in cosmetic products. Moreover, the proposed model may be useful for the evaluation of candidates for UV filters. | |
dc.affiliation | Wydział Farmaceutyczny : Zakład Farmakognozji | pl |
dc.affiliation | Wydział Farmaceutyczny : Zakład Bromatologii | pl |
dc.affiliation | Wydział Farmaceutyczny : Zakład Biochemii Farmaceutycznej | pl |
dc.cm.date | 2021-09-01 | |
dc.cm.id | 105447 | |
dc.cm.idOmega | UJCM55abb5b85a454fc881d391d65b7c3c1e | pl |
dc.contributor.author | Galanty, Agnieszka - 129437 | pl |
dc.contributor.author | Popiół, Justyna - 237340 | pl |
dc.contributor.author | Paczkowska-Walendowska, Magdalena | pl |
dc.contributor.author | Studzińska-Sroka, Elżbieta | pl |
dc.contributor.author | Paśko, Paweł - 133102 | pl |
dc.contributor.author | Cielecka-Piontek, Judyta | pl |
dc.contributor.author | Pękala, Elżbieta - 133125 | pl |
dc.contributor.author | Podolak, Irma - 133183 | pl |
dc.date.accession | 2022-02-01 | pl |
dc.date.accessioned | 2021-09-01T07:52:18Z | |
dc.date.available | 2021-09-01T07:52:18Z | |
dc.date.issued | 2021 | pl |
dc.date.openaccess | 0 | |
dc.description.accesstime | w momencie opublikowania | |
dc.description.number | 17 | pl |
dc.description.points | 100 | |
dc.description.version | ostateczna wersja wydawcy | |
dc.description.volume | 26 | pl |
dc.identifier.articleid | 5224 | pl |
dc.identifier.doi | 10.3390/molecules26175224 | pl |
dc.identifier.eissn | 1420-3049 | pl |
dc.identifier.issn | 1420-3049 | pl |
dc.identifier.project | ROD UJ / O | pl |
dc.identifier.uri | https://ruj.uj.edu.pl/xmlui/handle/item/277922 | |
dc.identifier.weblink | https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/26/17/5224 | pl |
dc.language | eng | pl |
dc.language.container | eng | pl |
dc.pbn.affiliation | Dziedzina nauk medycznych i nauk o zdrowiu : nauki farmaceutyczne | |
dc.relation.uri | * | |
dc.rights | Udzielam licencji. Uznanie autorstwa 4.0 Międzynarodowa | |
dc.rights.licence | CC-BY | |
dc.rights.uri | http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/legalcode.pl | |
dc.share.type | Otwarte czasopismo | |
dc.subject.en | usnic acid | |
dc.subject.en | photoprotection | |
dc.subject.en | normal skin cells | |
dc.subject.en | octocrylene | |
dc.subtype | Article | pl |
dc.title | (+)-Usnic acid as a promising candidate for a safe and stable topical photoprotective agent | pl |
dc.title.journal | Molecules | pl |
dc.type | JournalArticle | pl |
dspace.entity.type | Publication |
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