(+)-Usnic acid as a promising candidate for a safe and stable topical photoprotective agent

2021
journal article
article
13
dc.abstract.enThe study aimed to examine whether usnic acid—a lichen compound with UV-absorbing properties—can be considered as a prospective photoprotective agent in cosmetic products. Moreover, a comparison of two usnic acid enantiomers was performed to preselect the more effective compound. To meet this aim, an in vitro model was created, comprising the determination of skin-penetrating properties via skin-PAMPA assay, safety assessment to normal human skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts), and examination of photostability and photoprotective properties. Both enantiomers revealed comparable good skin-penetrating properties. Left-handed usnic acid was slightly more toxic to keratinocytes (IC50 80.82 and 40.12 µg/mL, after 48 and 72 h, respectively) than its right-handed counterpart. The latter enantiomer, in a cosmetic formulation, was characterized by good photoprotective properties and photostability, comparable to the UV filter octocrylene. Perhaps most interestingly, (+)-usnic acid combined with octocrylene in one formulation revealed enhanced photoprotection and photostability. Thus, the strategy can be considered for the potential use of (+)-usnic acid as a UV filter in cosmetic products. Moreover, the proposed model may be useful for the evaluation of candidates for UV filters.
dc.affiliationWydział Farmaceutyczny : Zakład Farmakognozjipl
dc.affiliationWydział Farmaceutyczny : Zakład Bromatologiipl
dc.affiliationWydział Farmaceutyczny : Zakład Biochemii Farmaceutycznejpl
dc.cm.date2021-09-01
dc.cm.id105447
dc.cm.idOmegaUJCM55abb5b85a454fc881d391d65b7c3c1epl
dc.contributor.authorGalanty, Agnieszka - 129437 pl
dc.contributor.authorPopiół, Justyna - 237340 pl
dc.contributor.authorPaczkowska-Walendowska, Magdalenapl
dc.contributor.authorStudzińska-Sroka, Elżbietapl
dc.contributor.authorPaśko, Paweł - 133102 pl
dc.contributor.authorCielecka-Piontek, Judytapl
dc.contributor.authorPękala, Elżbieta - 133125 pl
dc.contributor.authorPodolak, Irma - 133183 pl
dc.date.accession2022-02-01pl
dc.date.accessioned2021-09-01T07:52:18Z
dc.date.available2021-09-01T07:52:18Z
dc.date.issued2021pl
dc.date.openaccess0
dc.description.accesstimew momencie opublikowania
dc.description.number17pl
dc.description.points100
dc.description.versionostateczna wersja wydawcy
dc.description.volume26pl
dc.identifier.articleid5224pl
dc.identifier.doi10.3390/molecules26175224pl
dc.identifier.eissn1420-3049pl
dc.identifier.issn1420-3049pl
dc.identifier.projectROD UJ / Opl
dc.identifier.urihttps://ruj.uj.edu.pl/xmlui/handle/item/277922
dc.identifier.weblinkhttps://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/26/17/5224pl
dc.languageengpl
dc.language.containerengpl
dc.pbn.affiliationDziedzina nauk medycznych i nauk o zdrowiu : nauki farmaceutyczne
dc.relation.uri*
dc.rightsUdzielam licencji. Uznanie autorstwa 4.0 Międzynarodowa
dc.rights.licenceCC-BY
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/legalcode.pl
dc.share.typeOtwarte czasopismo
dc.subject.enusnic acid
dc.subject.enphotoprotection
dc.subject.ennormal skin cells
dc.subject.enoctocrylene
dc.subtypeArticlepl
dc.title(+)-Usnic acid as a promising candidate for a safe and stable topical photoprotective agentpl
dc.title.journalMoleculespl
dc.typeJournalArticlepl
dspace.entity.typePublication
dc.abstract.en
The study aimed to examine whether usnic acid—a lichen compound with UV-absorbing properties—can be considered as a prospective photoprotective agent in cosmetic products. Moreover, a comparison of two usnic acid enantiomers was performed to preselect the more effective compound. To meet this aim, an in vitro model was created, comprising the determination of skin-penetrating properties via skin-PAMPA assay, safety assessment to normal human skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts), and examination of photostability and photoprotective properties. Both enantiomers revealed comparable good skin-penetrating properties. Left-handed usnic acid was slightly more toxic to keratinocytes (IC50 80.82 and 40.12 µg/mL, after 48 and 72 h, respectively) than its right-handed counterpart. The latter enantiomer, in a cosmetic formulation, was characterized by good photoprotective properties and photostability, comparable to the UV filter octocrylene. Perhaps most interestingly, (+)-usnic acid combined with octocrylene in one formulation revealed enhanced photoprotection and photostability. Thus, the strategy can be considered for the potential use of (+)-usnic acid as a UV filter in cosmetic products. Moreover, the proposed model may be useful for the evaluation of candidates for UV filters.
dc.affiliationpl
Wydział Farmaceutyczny : Zakład Farmakognozji
dc.affiliationpl
Wydział Farmaceutyczny : Zakład Bromatologii
dc.affiliationpl
Wydział Farmaceutyczny : Zakład Biochemii Farmaceutycznej
dc.cm.date
2021-09-01
dc.cm.id
105447
dc.cm.idOmegapl
UJCM55abb5b85a454fc881d391d65b7c3c1e
dc.contributor.authorpl
Galanty, Agnieszka - 129437
dc.contributor.authorpl
Popiół, Justyna - 237340
dc.contributor.authorpl
Paczkowska-Walendowska, Magdalena
dc.contributor.authorpl
Studzińska-Sroka, Elżbieta
dc.contributor.authorpl
Paśko, Paweł - 133102
dc.contributor.authorpl
Cielecka-Piontek, Judyta
dc.contributor.authorpl
Pękala, Elżbieta - 133125
dc.contributor.authorpl
Podolak, Irma - 133183
dc.date.accessionpl
2022-02-01
dc.date.accessioned
2021-09-01T07:52:18Z
dc.date.available
2021-09-01T07:52:18Z
dc.date.issuedpl
2021
dc.date.openaccess
0
dc.description.accesstime
w momencie opublikowania
dc.description.numberpl
17
dc.description.points
100
dc.description.version
ostateczna wersja wydawcy
dc.description.volumepl
26
dc.identifier.articleidpl
5224
dc.identifier.doipl
10.3390/molecules26175224
dc.identifier.eissnpl
1420-3049
dc.identifier.issnpl
1420-3049
dc.identifier.projectpl
ROD UJ / O
dc.identifier.uri
https://ruj.uj.edu.pl/xmlui/handle/item/277922
dc.identifier.weblinkpl
https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/26/17/5224
dc.languagepl
eng
dc.language.containerpl
eng
dc.pbn.affiliation
Dziedzina nauk medycznych i nauk o zdrowiu : nauki farmaceutyczne
dc.relation.uri*
dc.rights
Udzielam licencji. Uznanie autorstwa 4.0 Międzynarodowa
dc.rights.licence
CC-BY
dc.rights.uri
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/legalcode.pl
dc.share.type
Otwarte czasopismo
dc.subject.en
usnic acid
dc.subject.en
photoprotection
dc.subject.en
normal skin cells
dc.subject.en
octocrylene
dc.subtypepl
Article
dc.titlepl
(+)-Usnic acid as a promising candidate for a safe and stable topical photoprotective agent
dc.title.journalpl
Molecules
dc.typepl
JournalArticle
dspace.entity.type
Publication
Affiliations

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